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Opinión Oda al Polvorón como el dulce navideño por excelencia El polvorón, el dulce navideño español por excelencia Getty Images
La Navidad española se distingue con el polvorón como bandera y espada, dulce que se extendió durante el siglo XIX Si lo escachas antes de comerlo, es que no lo entiendes. Eres tú quien remata el polvorón en tu boca Los puedes comprar ecológicos, con todo tipo de harinas, sin edulcorantes, o con sabores: de limón, canela, coco o incluso turrón De todas las divisiones binarias (y por lo tanto mongolas) en las que se puede separar el mundo, vamos a bifurcar a la humanidad entre quienes escachan el polvorón antes de abrirlo y quienes no lo escachan, es decir, quienes lo abren tal cual, sabiendo que ha sido elaborado para fragmentarse, desmigarse, y que en dicha fragilidad reside la tontada simple de su belleza.
Polvorón inestable, polvorón frágil. Icono navideño que ve pasar ingenios modernos, (panetones inmensos, abetos de hojaldre, brulés de turrón) sin alterarse en su alma de boina , sin darse ni quitarse importancia, con la humildad de un pesebre, con su misma inconsistencia, que a la par es su virtud máxima. Comerte un polvorón reclama la delicadeza de un trasquilador de ovejas. Ser fiel al polvorón equivale a creer que los padres no son los reyes, que Papá Noel no tiene hijos y que el discurso regio de la tele no es real, sino un holograma social que en realidad nadie entiende.
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Pol-vo-rón : tres oes que retan a tu cerebro infantil a pronunciarlo con la boca llena, y además acabando en ene, para que escupas parte de su masa de harina, manteca, almendra molida y azúcar sobre la mesa. Polvorón: de la Estepa, de Antequera, de Sevilla, de Tordesillas, de Badajoz, de Vitoria. Polvorón, antaño ninguneado frente al mantecado, que es lo mismo pero no. Polvorón, envuelto como un gran caramelo cuando lo elaboran con solera.
Esto es una oda, obviamente, a un dulce humilde que, según la leyenda, ingeniaron las monjas del Convento de Santa Clara de Jesús , en Estepa, cuyas dos ocupaciones diarias eran orar y cocinar golosinas. En qué momento la rama femenina de la Iglesia Católica hilvanó la fe, la clausura y el placer de la lengua relamida de mieles y hojuelas es un misterio. Santa Teresa no escribió de eso. Ni Fray Luis. Ni Feijoo (el cura, no el otro). Tampoco se conocen encíclicas sobre los cientos de dulces conventuales que ha parido el cristianismo y su relación con la divinidad, el cilicio o el remordimiento. Pero gracias a aquellas célibes esteparias, que aprovecharon la abundante manteca de cerdo sobrante de las matanzas sevillanas, la Navidad española se distingue desde entonces con el polvorón como bandera y espada, dulce que se extendió durante el siglo XIX y cuyo significado navideño/pop ya compite con la mismísima galleta de jengibre estadounidense, esa con forma de humanoide sonriente a medio cocer, o a punto de fallecer (o de votante de Trump, según se quiera ver).
El polvorón no tiene forma porque, de hecho, desprecia cualquier horma. Si lo escachas antes de comerlo, es que no lo entiendes. Eres tú quien remata el polvorón en tu boca. Tú haces el polvorón, tú lo culminas . Lo abres para que se desmorone y lo rearmes. Es un Tente, un Exín Castillos, un Lego y un Mecano juntos. Es ingeniería sin quererlo, que te exige como comensal y también último cocinero.
Polvorones y mantecados telecinco.es
El mantecado, al no añadir almendra, puede enseñorearse con firmeza, como si fuera un mazapán, un turrón o una formación en tortuga de centuriones en mitad de un belén gigante. ¿Y qué? ¿Acaso es mejor el ladrillo que el adobe, la peladilla que la pasa, la nalga con malla suspensoria que la nalga libre y basculante, el beso de silicona, que la lengua amodorrada que se pierde en otra boca beoda durante la madrugada de una nochevieja? ¿La vida es fragilidad, contingencia, temblores y dudas; y, como contrapartida, trozos y migas de felicidad que has de buscar, reunir, y alzar en castillos tontos de arena con tesón y alegría. Igualico que un polvorón, mira tú qué analogía.
Los puedes comprar ecológicos, con todo tipo de harinas, sin edulcorantes, o con sabores: de limón, canela, coco o incluso turrón (en una suerte de metanavidad inexplicable).
Tu familia, normalmente, peleará por el de chocolate, pero si de verdad adoras al polvorón, te dará igual. Las cajas viejunas, las que mantienen sus tipografías y diseños antiguos, incluyen el único enigma comercial que desde hace décadas acompaña al polvorón: el rosco de vino. ¿Qué leches pinta entre polvorones? ¿También lo inventaron las monjas? ¿Contiene alguna broma secular que todavía no hemos descifrado? ¿Se estaban riendo acaso del párroco local y su afición desmedida a la mistela? ¿O, sin darse cuenta, inventaron el primer donut en miniatura del mundo?
Esto lo veremos en otro artículo.
Mantecados y polvorones Estepa Europa Press
Algunos de nuestros polvorones favoritos El Mesías. De la Estepa. Porque son un clásico de mi infancia. Carlos I. De la Estepa también. No confundir con Felipe II, que es otro rey, y además un mantecado. El Toro, de Tordesillas, porque aparte de riquísimos, en sus fotos publicitarias los sacan desmigados. Polvorones de Anjhara. De Lugo. No llevan almendra, pero sí sidra. ¿Es un polvorón, un mantecado u otra cosa? Pues como el rosco de vino: un misterio.
Temas