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Opinión Contracrónica del primer Concurso Pinchos de Castilla y León: ¡y los cinco ganadores (aparte de la croqueta de tortilla)! Juan Carlos Jiménez Pradas, del restaurante Azul Mediterráneo, de Valladolid, consiguió el Pincho de Oro
Una 'croqueta de tortilla de patata', como concepto, es un delirio y a la vez una galaxia Jesús Sánchez, de El Cenador de Amós, fue el presidente del jurado que cató los 27 pinchos (un 28 no les habría entrado) 'Lechazus Deliciosus', de Juan Carlos Jiménez Pradas del restaurante Azul Mediterráneo, en Valladolid, fue el premiado con el Pincho de Oro Verónica Zumalacárregui, que oficia como presentadora del primer Concurso Pinchos y Tapas de Castilla y León , celebrado en Zamora del 28 al 30 de octubre, anda con el micrófono preguntando entre el público mientras varios concursantes montan sus platos en el escenario, cuando, al elegir a un mozo que es estudiante de hostelería, o que acaba de terminar sus estudios, o que busca trabajo, porque no queda muy clara su situación, Verónica, con su gracejo, le pregunta al chaval si no le gustaría presentarse al recién nacido campeonato autonómico en alguna edición posterior. A lo que él contesta: “Por supuesto, ya lo creo. Tengo hasta pensado el pincho: una croqueta de tortilla de patata” .
La idea suena tan desconcertante que no sabes si lo dice en serio o en broma, aunque su animosa convicción sugiere lo primero. Una 'croqueta de tortilla de patata', como concepto, es un delirio y a la vez una galaxia , la identidad culinaria española reunida en un mazacote achatado por los polos. Una piedra digna de Viriato, ídolo zamorano. Se lo comento a una compañera de la prensa y me dice que le suena que ya existe la croqueta loca, “como la pizza de hamburguesas, ¿sabes?”. Hace ademán de mirarlo en Google, pero la freno. Quita, quita. A veces, la ignorancia proporciona mucha satisfacción. No amarguemos con un clickbait la risa que nos acaba de regalar este chef soñador.
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La risa se convierte en ternura cuando, apenas unos minutos después, Juan Carlos Jiménez Pradas , del restaurante Azul Mediterráneo, de Valladolid, recoge el Pincho de Oro como ganador y lo agradece con estas pocas pero bonitas palabras: “Gracias al jurado por entender el pincho, que es entenderme a mí, a mi tierra, a mi equipo. Y gracias a todos los compañeros que cada día levantáis la persiana para seguir trabajando”. Juan Carlos ha ganado con 'Lechazus Deliciosus'. Otro aplauso por el bautismo. Viva Astérix.
'Lechazus Deliciosus', del cocinero Juan Carlos Jiménez del restaurante Azul Mediterráneo de Valladolid ha sido el ganador telecinco.es
Los concursos gastronómicos no son un cachondeo y fiesta continuos si asistes como público. Sucede como en 'Masterchef': no ves cocinar realmente, ya que los participantes calientan y ensamblan los platos en el escenario, con ingredientes, salsas y aliños que en realidad han preparado antes. Solo que aquí no lloran a la cámara por sus torpezas ni protestan porque un compañero les ha escupido y esas cosas de la tele. Este cocinar sin cocinar es el patrón estandarizado por Madrid Fusión, que incluye estas otras características:
Un cartel con tantos patrocinadores que el logotipo original del evento casi no cabe. Una nave industrial eficaz para el propósito, pero no precisamente acogedora. El IFEMA de Zamora se llama, lógicamente, IFEZA. (En los tres días que dura el concurso mi cerebro no logra pronunciarlo bien ni una sola vez). Políticos en la inauguración, que no caben en la foto horizontal (ruina para Instagram) y que, por supuesto, se extienden en sus intervenciones como el alcalde de Berlanga desde el balcón. En todos los discursos aparece SIEMPRE la palabra “referente”: “convertirse en un referente, consolidarse como un referente”. También, “experiencia”: “ofrecer una experiencia gastronómica”. Se están creando ya concejalías y consejerías de Referentes y Experiencias . El escenario es una tarima con un pantallón de televisión y un frontispicio con tres o cuatro cocinas básicas, más un horno, por donde van pasando los concursantes en turnos. En este caso, 27, los tres ganadores de los respectivos campeonatos locales de las nueve provincias de la región. Flipo un poco al ver la pasión de Segovia por la cocina internacional : 'Gyozas de lechal', 'Taco de cochinillo' y 'Ramen y Cajal'. Este último me saca otra carcajada. Premio Nobel al Caldo Japo. El jurado, normalmente cocineros con estrellas Michelin y Soles Repsol, más responsables de medios especializados, se sitúa de espaldas al escenario y frente al auditorio (compañeros de oficio, familiares, periodistas y público curioso). En Zamora, el presidente del jurado es Jesús Sánchez, de El Cenador de Amós , quien, amén de su impenitente gorra, siempre lleva gafas de colores chulos. El primer día, antes de arrancar la cata, me dice que llega con hambre. El último, cuando le plantan delante el pincho 27, confiesa a los asistentes que “el nivel es altísimo”, pero que, vaya, que no le cabría un 28. Más allá de sus similitudes, este evento novel está estupendamente organizado. A la prensa nos tratan de lujo. Nos conducen por Zamora, de tasca en bar y de restaurante a la iglesia pasando, claro, por la estatua de Viriato. Nos llama poderosamente la atención la cantidad de pinchos que llevan Kimchi , cuyo distribuidor en la provincia debe de ser un hacha del marketing. Una anécdota, en una ciudad a una hora de Madrid con cocineros como Adrián Asensio, de Cuzeo, que está emocionado “simplemente porque esto se organice en mi ciudad”. La misma satisfacción de Santiago Vicente, del Rey Don Sancho, a quien solo con escucharle presentar su 'Caldereta de lechazo' en el escenario ya apetece abrazarle. Qué emoción sincera, qué sentimiento de pertenencia. Delantales con raíz, humildad y talento. Estarías orgulloso, Viriato.
Voy preguntando a todo quisque qué tal el nivel, porque los asistentes no sabemos a qué sabe lo que prueba el jurado. Las tapas no se reparten en bandejas como en una boda , tendrían que preparar cientos. Así que intento colarme en la trastienda (donde no está permitido el acceso, dejen a los profesionales cocinar), aprovechando las salidas del escenario. Porque los jueces no se comen los pinchos enteros, ahí sobra comida que no veas.
Muchos aspirantes, además, presentan 'conceptos' descocadísimos, que más parecen pases de un menú degustación que algo que puedas pinchar con un palillo o trinchar con un tenedor en una barra, no digamos ya cogerlo con la mano. Algunas explicaciones ocupan dos hojas en mi libreta: carne macerada en setecientas especias cocinada a baja temperatura durante dos fines de semana soleados y alternos con una reducción de tuétano de cabra negra, tomate texturizado, flores de clitoria, espuma de cava rosé y notas de humo. Ponle eso a Paco con un chato de vino , anda.
Mira, ahí la croqueta de tortilla o de paella se ajustaría más a la definición que algunas presentaciones de las desfiladas en Zamora: un pincho encima de un gran tronco, o de un espejo, o de una caja cerrada con un candado y que solo se puede abrir leyendo con el teléfono el código QR de la tapa. Jesús Sánchez no se apaña con el código. Momento incómodo. Cuando le sirven el troncopincho, el pincho se cae del madero. Momento incómodo. Y momento incómodo cuando, al fin, me cuelo y me planto con mi móvil en las bambalinas donde el equipo de un participante está zampándose y hasta rebañando las sobras del jurado. “Solo es para sacar una foto”, digo. Ya, claro. Me invitan, por supuesto, porque las cocineras y cocineros son buena gente .
Se lo comento a otro compañero y me confidencia que en un concurso similar dijo en público, cuando le preguntaron cuál era su carne de ave favorita, que “el cigüeño viudo”. Le miro ojiplático. “Sí, me inventé sobre la marcha que cuando una cigüeña macho pierde a su pareja de toda la vida e intenta conquistar a otra, desarrolla una carne muy suculenta. Y oye, nadie me lo ha cuestionado hasta hoy”. Río a mandíbula abierta. El peor de los chefs es mejor que el mejor de los periodistas gastronómicos , como dijo Anton Ego. Ellos levantan persianas. Nosotros, hacemos contracrónicas con Kimchi y chorradas.
Francisco Javier Ruíz Fonta, del restaurante La Jamada de Burgos, logra el pincho de plata con 'Fricassé con guiso thai de carrillera y mango' telecinco.es
Sara Cámara Fernández, del restaurante Casa Pacheco de Salamanca, obtiene el bronce por 'Salmorejo, cangrejo de río y trucha del Tormes' telecinco.es
El accésit a la 'Tapa más Tradicional' ha sido para 'Y un cuerno!' de Adrián Asensio Malillos, del restaurante Cuzeo de Zamora telecinco.es
'IY.XI', del restaurante Jiapan de Valladolid, ha sido premiada con el accésit a la 'Tapa más Vanguardista' telecinco.es
El 'Mejor concepto de Tapa' ha sido para 'Taco crujiente de cochinillo segoviano' de Andrea Salazar Cornejo, del restaurante Rosa Mexicano Taquería de Segovia telecinco.es
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