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Amadeo, el señor de los caracoles: "Se comen como se besa y rebañando bien la cazuela" Amadeo Lázaro Catalina, entre caracoles, la imagen que resume su vida.
Hablamos con este tabernero de 95 años que empezó a servir caracoles en la plaza del Cascorro de Madrid en 1942 Con casi un siglo de vida, ha visto pasar la historia de España por su local Nos cuenta su biografía y también la evolución de este plato, que empezó como comida de pobres y hoy es delicatessen La larga tradición de amor u odio de los caracoles se rompe al cruzar la puerta de Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles, en la plaza del Cascorro de Madrid. "O te gustan o te gustan", nos advierte su dueño, Amadeo Lázaro Catalina, ensalzando al mismo tiempo este plato y el oficio de tabernero. "Tengo 95 años y soy tabernero. Ni restaurador ni camarero. Tabernero y casi de museo. Ya quedamos pocos", aclara antes de empezar la entrevista.
Con gran salero y la retórica de quien ha visto pasar por su taberna casi un siglo de vida, nos narra su biografía, a ratos con desgarrada sinceridad y a ratos en verso, memorizando citas sabias y dichos populares. "Nací el 31 de marzo de 1929 en Adrada de Haza (Burgos). Con diez años me colocaron en un autobús de la empresa Navarro con destino Madrid. Iba solo, pues no había perras para más billetes. Pero era lo normal en aquella España rural. En la capital me esperaba mi hermana Nicanora, que había salido de casa para servir, y empecé a trabajar en una taberna de la calle Toledo. Era un lugar sencillo, pero muy concurrido. Recién llegado del pueblo, a mí todo aquello me resultaba extraño y echaba de menos a mi gente, pero no había más remedio que salir adelante".
Muestra con orgullo un plato que, en escencia, no ha cambiado en sus ocho décadas de oficio. CEDIDA
Prostitución, miseria y estraperlo Y vaya si salió. Con 13 años ya estaba en la plaza de Cascorro curtiéndose como aprendiz con Manolo y María, que le pagaban a final de mes 50 pesetas de las de entonces (ni medio euro, para entendernos), además de cama y comida. "Corría el año 1942. Hasta hoy", sentencia. Entretanto, toda una vida en esa plaza céntrica de la capital, corazón de la posguerra, donde las mañanas olían a prostitución, miseria, hambre y estraperlo . "En el colegio aprendí que antes de b y p siempre va la m y que España limita con el mar y se separa de Francia. Poco más. El resto de lo que fui sabiendo, cultura de oreja, la más completa. Siempre digo que esto es el Ateneo del pueblo, donde todos enseñamos y todos aprendemos". Sí, señor. Cultura letrada y cultura popular.
El tiempo se ha detenido en esta fachada próxima al Rastro de Madrid. CEDIDA
"Madrid ha cambiado mucho, pero la taberna tiene esa cosa que invita a compartir una charla mientras tomas unos caracoles y un vaso de vino. Aquí no te puedes sentir solo", señala. Después de este paréntesis, retoma el relato de su vida y nos cuenta que, al morir Manolo, su jefe, María traspasó el local y se lo quedaron su hermana Nicanora y él, que tenía entonces 15 años. Con la ayuda de su cuñado Gabino, lo sacaron adelante. "Servíamos mucho aguardiente, vino y alguna aceituna. Poco después llegaron del pueblo mi hermana Valentina y mi madre, Bonifacia. Y con ellas, los famosos caracoles guisado con ajo, perejil y cebolla".
El secreto de los caracoles está en la sala y su punto picante. CEDIDA
En aquella época, los caracoles se consideraban comida de pobres; hoy sus comensales los disfrutan como si fuesen verdaderas delicatessen. En su taberna se sirven como plato principal o para ir abriendo boca antes de tomar unos callos, una ración de oreja, judías viudas, rabo de toro, manitas de cerdo o morcilla de Burgos… "Comida castiza, casera, con sustancia… Como debe ser", reivindica este carismático tabernero que ha sumado al clan siete hijos, nietos, bisnietos y, cómo no, a Santa, su mujer, de quien asegura que hace honor a su nombre.
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Su legado está ya en buenas manos Se casó con ella el 3 de julio de 1958. La familia fue creciendo con la misma alegría que la popularidad de los caracoles, hasta formar una gran familia. Hoy algunos de ellos son los que han tomado las riendas de Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles, garantizando su continuidad. "Yo sigo yendo a diario porque es la prolongación de mi hogar, pero mis hijos no dejan ya que les eche una mano", dice con cierto pesar, aunque con orgullo de ver que su legado está en buenas manos. "Un domingo de Rastro podemos servir entre 50 kilos y 60 kilos de caracoles. El resto de la semana no se queda muy atrás". En total, llegan a cocinarse más de mil kilos al mes, que llegan de varias granjas ecológicas de Arenas de San Pedro y la otra en Cadalso de los Vidrios.
Amadeo aprovecha momentos como este para exaltar las bondades del caracol, un alimento, por cierto, rico en proteínas y vitamina B12. Jubilado y casi retirado, sigue siendo tabernero, pero con solera, de esos a los que ya cantaba el poeta Baltasar del Alcázar: "Grande consuelo es tener la taberna por vecina. Si es o no invención moderna, vive Dios que no lo sé, pero delicada fue la invención de la taberna . Porque llego allí sediento y voime contento". Este tabernero remata: "Vendemos caracoles, pero, sobre todo, damos calor".
Con vino o cerveza, lo importante es saber comerlo Ahora ya no entra en la cocina, pero se le puede encontrar entre las mesas y la terraza, saludando al personal y enseñándoles el buen comer del caracol. "Hay que mojar bien el pan en la salsa y siempre rebañar la cazuela". Nos da también alguna sugerencia para guisarlos. "Hay que ponerle codillo de jamón, manitas de cerdo, chorizo y algo picante. En el picante de la salsa está la gracia, pero como en el amor y la vida, todo en su justa medida y suficiente para tocar el cielo". Bien dice el refrán que los caracoles por la salsilla se comen; que caracoles sin salsa no valdrían nada. "El caracol puede acompañarse con cerveza, vino o «lo que te apetezca», lo importante es saber comerlo. «Hay que darle vueltas como un caramelo y sorber como se sorbe un beso".
Adereza cada respuesta con un consejo, un refrán o un chascarrillo que anima la conversación. Lo mismo hace con la clientela. "Ahora no se pasa hambre, pero hay más ganas que nunca de socializar, de tener una charla amigable, de que te escuchen. Es hambre espiritual", sentencia este hombre enamorado de la taberna.
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