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Opinión Casa Pascualillo, un bar único que reúne cocina de dos siglos Torrija a la brasa con helado de tomillo de Casa Pascualillo Gabi Orte Chilindrón
El centenario local de Zaragoza sirve tapas y platos de 1939, y también vanguardias de 2024 David Baldrich está ahora al frente de Casa Pascualillo tras contar con contar con el padrinazgo de los dueños originales, Guillermo Vela y Teresa Blasco Una de sus condiciones fue que, en tiempos de quinta gama, todo lo que saliera de su amplia cocina abierta estuviera cocinado Casa Pascualillo , en Zaragoza, quizá sea un bar único en España. Un bar de barra preñada, un restaurante de raciones y también de carta, que combina tapas y platos de 1939 , año de su fundación, con la imaginación gastronómica de 2024 aportada por uno de los cocineros más inquietos y talentosos de Aragón: David Baldrich .
Baldrich, propietario del laureado restaurante La Senda , se ha aventurado desde mayo con un formato hostelero tan audaz como complejo. En Casa Pascualillo puedes pedir las centenarias 'cigalas de huerta' , o ajos tiernos fritos, propios de la época y el ingenio del hambre, pero también el 'Huevo Senda' , o un huevo a baja temperatura, con salsa de cebolla y miel, jamón, hongos y ceniza de patata. Todo, anotado en la misma pizarra que, cada día, cambia según mercado y temporada. Dos siglos de gastronomía, tratados con la misma calidad y servidos con la misma naturalidad.
Baldrich tuvo que decidir de un día para otro si se hacía cargo de un negocio centenario , el segundo más antiguo de la capital aragonesa. Los hermanos Luis y Guang Yao Qiu, propietarios de la cadena de restaurantes orientales Sakura, le propusieron de sopetón asumir la cocina de un establecimiento que estaba en concurso de acreedores. Y aceptó, pero con una condición: contar con el padrinazgo de los dueños originales, Guillermo Vela y Teresa Blasco , quienes convirtieron durante el siglo XX Pascualillo en alma de El Tubo, el entramado de calles del casco antiguo de Zaragoza donde da gusto perderse entre bares, vinos y tapas.
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En estos siete meses, Baldrich ha sorteado todas las dificultades de la hostelería contemporánea, duplicadas por su ambición de ayuntar en un mismo local dos propuestas culinarias , una clásica y otra moderna. Primero, formar un equipo competente con una docena de profesionales ofreciendo contratos estables de 40 horas con descansos y salarios adecuados. Parece fácil, pero que le pregunten a cualquier hostelero de este país lo que se sufre persiguiendo tamaño objetivo. Pero además, Baldrich se exigió otras dos prerrogativas: que, en estos tiempos de quinta gama, todo lo que saliera de su amplia cocina abierta estuviera cocinado . Y, en segundo lugar, que los precios fueran razonables, “populares”, aunque “tuviéramos que pelearnos con los escandallos”.
David Baldrich Gabi Orte Chilindrón
Sus papas bravas están fritas al momento y llevan una salsa de tomate y una mayonesa caseras. Cuestan cinco euros. Una albóndiga de ciervo más grande que una pelota de golf con salsa de rebañar y patatas fritas, 3,20 euros. Lo mismo sucede con los platos sofisticados, que pueden variar con una costilla madurada 36 horas con maíz, un canelón de coco con Kimchi, o una sardina ahumada con uva ajoblanco y manzana. Sin salirse de madre ninguno cuando pides la cuenta .
Canelón de pollo con salsa de coco, kimchi y lima Gabi Orte Chilindrón
“Pero, lógicamente, no todo el mundo lo entiende. Hay clientes que vienen por los platos de La Senda y no les va lo antiguo, y gente que ve un local elegante, y se echa para atrás”. Por fortuna, el boca oreja funciona , y entrar, ver la barra, probar, y sonreír de placer con las croquetas de boletus, el guiso de rabo, o la papada a baja temperatura, o con el pan de leche con pollo marinado y salsa de cítricos que David me da a probar como novedad, van devolviendo cada día Pascualillo un brillo renovado . “Claro, si no me quisiera complicar la vida, compraría salsas potentes industriales, carnes y croquetas preparadas, hamburguesitas y demás productos precocinados… y a ganar dinero. Pero no es lo que quiero”. Todo lo contrario. “¡Ya me fastidia tener que hacer alguna concesión porque lo pide mucha gente, como meter el chuletón en carta!”, bromea.
Costilla a baja temperatura 36 horas con salsa barbacoa y maíz Gabi Orte Chilindrón
En la recuperación de platos añejos, Baldrich se ha topado con la subida de precios de la casquería . Los buñuelos de sesos de corderos dificultan también el escandallo, porque las entrañas (antaño, los 'despojos', palabra que resumía su valor social) están más solicitadas en hostelería, y además no hay demasiado proveedor de calidad. Por no hablar de los cambios de gustos entre la clientela, en todos los sentidos: “Algunos clientes incluso ven como cutre que nuestras pizarras no sean fijas , sino que las cambiemos, que borremos y escribamos en ellas lo que ese día hemos cambiado porque hemos comprado otros ingredientes y hemos cocinado otros platos o tapas”.
Casa Pascualillo Gabi Orte Chilindrón
La vocación del nuevo Pascualillo por recuperar el ambiente de un bar de barra es tal que se está planteando suprimir las mesas de la primera planta para amplificar el ambiente genuino de gente de pie charlando y compartiendo rondas. Es decir, el sabor propio de El Tubo. (Y ojo, que cuesta, porque desde la pandemia nos estamos acostumbrando como sociedad a despreciar las barras). En la planta superior, el local dispone de comedores y reservados para comer en grupo , a la carta o con menú cerrado, que a partir de 2025 dispondrán de una oferta específica. También, cuenta con una planta baja, pensada como un espacio para tomar copas después de una cena o un evento.
Casa Pascualillo Gabi Orte Chilindrón
Pero lo fundamental es consolidar Pascualillo con esa afortunada bipolaridad de dos siglos de huerta, mar y monte que Baldrich se empeña en fundir. Porque todo el mundo en Zaragoza atesora un recuerdo familiar del antiguo Pascualillo. Y qué mejor regalo para la ciudad que poder continuar esa cadena, añadiendo nuevos eslabones a lo antiguo. Uniendo generaciones a través de nuestros bares, que para eso, al fin y al cabo, los inventamos.
Temas