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Opinión Madrid Fusión le da cuerda a la alta cocina española Madrid Fusión Europa Press
La XXII edición de la cita más potente de la gastronomía ha puesto el acento en la tecnología y la sostenibilidad en la restauración del futuro Hay un universo de cocineros que han diversificado los estilos, las propuestas e incluso el modelo de negocio Se han juntado estrellas internacionales consagradas con profesionales que ya despuntan y están llamados al relevo Madrid Fusión llega cada enero para poner en hora el reloj de la alta cocina española. Cita obligada para los profesionales y aficionados, para las marcas y los consumidores, ha tenido la virtud de evolucionar con el sector, de acompañarlo en su camino hacia el futuro e incluso de incentivarlo y estimularlo con planteamientos que han sido disruptivos e innovadores. La XXII edición de Madrid Fusión ha aterrizado en una España que ha crecido gastronómicamente. La alta cocina española ya no es cosa de solistas . Hay un universo de cocineros que han diversificado los estilos, las propuestas e incluso el modelo de negocio. Bajo el sugerente título de “Donde todo comienza”, cocineros de referencia llegados de Corea del Sur, Filipinas, Estados Unidos, Georgia, Suiza, Japón o Chile han compartido experiencias y escenario con los más destacados chefs del mundo gastronómico nacional como Joan Roca, Eneko Atxa, Ángel León, Adúriz, Dabiz Muñoz, Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch, Mateu Casañasa o Ferrán Adriá, el hombre que activó la palanca desde Cala Montjoi para proyectar la gastronomía española treinta años por delante de su tiempo. 220 ponentes y más de 200 empresas han participado en la edición anual del Congreso, convertido en referencia internacional. “La importancia de este congreso radica en la continuidad año tras año del mismo afán; compartir el conocimiento y conectar a los profesionales de un sector, que sigue en constante crecimiento y desarrollo en el mundo”, explica el presidente de Madrid fusión, Benjamín Lana.
Consagrados y jóvenes realidades En Madrid se han juntado esta semana estrellas internacionales consagradas con profesionales que ya despuntan y están llamados al relevo. Esa y no otra es la grandeza del ecosistema gastronómico español: una pirámide con estrellas reconocidas y sostenidas en la cúspide por méritos propios y una base que ha ido ensanchándose, haciéndose competitiva y diversa. Las nuevas generaciones ya son una realidad. Llegan con ambición y con ciencia. Son hijos de su tiempo y su tiempo se escribe con dos claves complementarias: tecnología y sostenibilidad . La tecnología ya ocupa buen parte del quehacer gastro, pero posiblemente solo estamos en los albores de que seguirá ofreciendo. Y la sostenibilidad es la asignatura mayor de la alimentación y, por ende, de la gastronomía: la cocina será verde o no será. Será sostenible o difícilmente tendrá futuro.
Gastro verde Malthus predijo a finales del siglo XVIII que un día la despensa global sería insuficiente para alimentar a todo el planeta, dado que la población crecía en progresión geométrica y los alimentos en progresión aritmética. Se calcula que para 2050 la tierra estará poblada por 8.500 millones de personas . Aunque la teoría de Malthus erró parcialmente al no tener en cuenta que la ciencia permitiría controlar la natalidad y la tecnología mejorar el rendimiento de la agricultura, no falló del todo al predecir el embudo que atenazaría la necesidad de alimentar a todos los habitantes del planeta. Las causas, hoy, son otras: la distribución geográfica de la población no está alineada con la producción; el cambio climático ha convertido la escasez de agua en un elemento crítico unido a la menor disposición de terreno cultivable y la emisión de gases de efecto invernadero por el ganado bovino, los fertilizantes agrícolas o el efecto a la tala de árboles y el empobrecimiento de la biodiversidad.
Madrid Fusión Europa Press
Agua y trigo Pedro Sánchez, de Bagá, que luce una estrella Michelín en su minúsculo restaurante jiennense, ha explicado cómo las pequeñas decisiones son la base de una gran conciencia global. En su restaurante han dejado de trabajar con productos como el aguacate o el mango porque sus plantaciones requieren mucha agua; o ha contado cómo utilizan el agua de los propios alimentos para cocinarlos a través de diferentes técnicas. Ángel León, triestrellado en Aponiente, en El Puerto de Santa María, ha deslumbrado una vez más con algo tan simple como es la importancia del agua en la gastronomía en la ponencia “el ingrediente más importante de la tierra: el agua”. Y se han celebrado mesas de debate interesantes como la titulada “No hay planeta B. ¿De dónde sacaremos los alimentos?” o una en torno a los “cultivos climáticamente inteligentes”.
Especialmente interesante la intervención de Lise Lykke Steffnesen, la CEO de NordGen, una empresa que guarda en Svalbard, un pequeño archipiélago en el mar glacial Ártico, en Noruega, una cámara acorazada que contiene hasta 20.000 muestras de trigo , atesorando toda la diversidad genética del cereal en un afán por proteger la biodiversidad.
El chef Quique Dacosta en Madrid Fusión uppers.es
Consumo, pastelería, vinos y más Pero Madrid Fusión ha dado para mucho más. Un éxito el nuevo escenario llamado “Dreams”, que liderado por la Fundación Alicia, ha abordado el escenario que nos aguarda utilizando la ciencia y la tecnología como herramientas para una alimentación equilibrada y sostenible a la vez que gustosa. En más de 20 sesiones diferentes expertos han puesto en común experiencias y conocimientos , que han alcanzado incluso a la alimentación como medicina. Uno de los elementos singulares de esta edición, con una mirada al clasicismo, ha tenido como protagonistas a los maestros del cuchillo. Se cumplían justo hace unos meses el 600 aniversario de la publicación de Arte cisoria , el arte de cortar a cuchillo, la obra de Enrique de Villena, el primer manual publicado sobre todo lo referente al arte de cortar, despiezar y trinchar los alimentos. A la vez que en el escenario se hablaba sobre el libro, el argentino Javier Brichetto, del restaurante Piantao de Madrid, ofreció la lección práctica: el despiece completo de un jabalí.
El vino, la pastelería o la elección del mejor desayuno de hotel, han sido otros de los contenidos destacados de una cita tan indispensable como inabarcable a lo largo y ancho de tres días en los que Madrid se convirtió un año más en capital mundial de la alta cocina.
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