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Opinión ¡Ortiguilla, qué guapa eres! La ortiguilla, un producto muy gourmet Getty Images
Las anémonas van abriéndose paso en las mesas más allá del sur Desde la fritura tradicional, a los arroces, las emulsiones o en bizcocho La ortiguilla no es un alga, es un animal Comerse una ortiguilla es beberse el mar. Como si entraras, confiado y optimista, en una ola con la boca abierta. ¿Les suena? ¿Ustedes no han tenido infancia? ¿No les llega el recuerdo a sal y yodo en la boca y el agua bajando, depurativamente, por el conducto nasal? Pues eso, pero sin el mal rato de la porción de ola en la nariz. La ortiguilla no es un alga . Nones. No es de origen vegetal marino como se piensa popularmente. La anemonia sulcata , que es la más común y utilizada en la cocina, es un animalito . En concreto dice la ciencia que es un cnidario antozoo y solo se presenta en forma pólipo, no de medusa, aunque lo parezca, aunque debe ser prima lejana. Hay quien dice que las anémonas son muy feas. Discrepamos: son otro tipo de belleza, como Rosy de Palma. Esa melena despeinada por las corrientes submarinas y el colorido caribe de sus cabellos la convierten en un bicho adorable. Guapa, podría llamársele sin temor a la exageración ni al qué dirán.
Instaladas en las profundidades Tienen una boca rodeada de tentáculos para cazar víctimas más pequeñas aún. Son los animales más antiguos y muestran una simplicidad evolutiva enorme. Forman parte del mismo grupo de los corales, aunque estos bichos se reparten en más de 6.000 especies. Se capturan arrancándolas del fondo del mar, donde viven plácidamente, apalancadas en las profundidades. Para sacarlas se necesitan submarinistas experimentados, conocimiento de la costa para identificar las zonas óptimas y respeto a las temporadas de veda. Utilizan una suerte de tenedor para extraerlas del fondo rocoso. Su trasiego es delicado: aguantan lo justo fuera del mar antes de oxidarse y perder su color y prestancia. Es un producto raro, extraño, poco universalizado, desconocido y alejado de los circuitos gastronómicos masivos. Sin embargo, es una experiencia gastronómica singular . Los grandes de la cocina cuando la descubren ya no se apean de su uso, sea como producto principal, emulsionadas, como fondo para concentrar el sabor o con cualquier técnica capaz de extraer el sabor de las profundidades marinas de una pequeña anémona y transmitírselo a un plato.
Bocata marino con ortiguillas, El Faro de Cádiz uppers.es
Se ama o se odia A la ortiguilla le cabe el dudoso honor de ser uno de esos productos que causa rechazo en muchos comensales, como los caracoles, la casquería o incluso el brócoli. Hay quien con la edad se cura de esos rechazos, para otros permanecen de por vida. Se les ama o se les odia. Elija libremente, pero en el afecto y el desafecto no se hacen prisioneros ni hay marcha atrás. Son para toda la vida.
Con el tiempo se ha ido abriendo paso en algunas mesas circunspectas, aunque muy lentamente. Ha sido históricamente de consumo preferente en las costas atlánticas y mediterráneas de Andalucía. Las cofradías de pescadores de A Illa y Villanueva de Arosa, en Galicia, llevan unos años capturando este ejemplar, aunque en Galicia -una meca del marisco- no parece que cuaje demasiado su consumo, aunque hay acciones de promoción y algunas tiendas especializadas. Sí se ataca más en el Delta del Ebro. A quien les gusta les parece un manjar, con un sabor profundo a mar, con mucha cremosidad en la boca y un juego de texturas sorprendente cuando se consumen fritas, que es la forma más tradicional de cocinarlas. Fritas quedan jugosas y con un punto gelatinoso por dentro, y crujientes por fuera. La mezcla del enharinado frito y el interior sedoso es un espectáculo gastronómico. Si fuera posible la comparación, piense en una ostra o en un percebe. Por ahí anda su registro de sabor, aunque cada uno tiene su identidad. De hecho, es curiosísimo e infinito el muestrario de sabores y matices que ofrecen los océanos sin dejar de saber a mar
32 euros el kilo Su consumo se retrotrae posiblemente a la posguerra, cuando cualquier boquete gastronómico era una trinchera. Se extendió por el litoral andaluz a través del consumo casero y con el tiempo llegó a los establecimientos de hostelería. El Campo de Gibraltar siempre ha sido lugar de peregrinación para el consumo de ortiguillas, con decenas de locales especializados. Las empresas especializadas que las venden por internet han ayudado a expandir su consumo. Algunas las venden en bolsas de aguas de mar para prolongar su caducidad y garantizar su perfecto estado de consumo. Esta semana, pedían en tiendas digitales especializadas 32 euros por un kilo de ortiguillas frescas (48 piezas) y 50 euros por un kilo (82 piezas) precocinadas, o lo que es igual enharinadas y fritas en aceite de girasol. Se envían congeladas. Solo necesitan descongelación y un minuto en la freidora.
Arroz meloso de clochinas y ortiguillas, de Rafa Soler uppers.es
Emulsionadas, en bizcocho, rematando un arroz con algas o con salsas de callos Queda dicho que la receta más tradicional y extendida es frita. Posiblemente en segundo lugar se sitúan los revueltos, a los que además del huevo y la ortiguilla se le añaden gambas y otros productos marinos. La evolución gastronómica ha ido inventando y ensayando nuevos usos . Quique Dacosta, el multi estrellado cocinero levantino, las emulsiona para potenciar el sabor de algunos platos. En la Milla de Marbella se marcan un arroz meloso de ortiguillas y velo ibérico extraordinario. En La Mariña Lucense, Gonzalo D´Ambrosio hace un arroz con algas que remata con ortiguillas fritas coronando la paellera. Cuando fue invitado a cocinar en Nueva York por el Instituto Culinario Francés, Ángel León, perito en el manejo de los frutos del mar, ofreció unos mejillones lacados con vermú y emulsión de ortiguillas.
En la costa gaditana se recomienda El copo, en Los Barrios; Willy 1975 en la misma localidad, El Ancla en Tarifa, El Campero en Barbate o El Faro en Cádiz, donde Mario Córdoba ofrece un bocata marino de ortiguillas con queso de cabra y pan ecológico.
Saltando de nuevo al Mediterráneo, en Can Roca, cocinan las Ortiguillas de mar con salsa de ortiguillas y ortigas. Un poco más abajo, en Denia, Rafa Soler ofrece un arroz meloso de clochinas y ortiguillas. Y ya en Madrid, Juanjo López en la Tasquita de Enfrente borda un plato con guiño cañi: ortiguillas en salsa de callos . En Abantal, en Sevilla, Julio Fernández sorprende con una ensalada de melón asado con ortiguillas y vinagreta de melocotón y almendras. Muy elaborado el ajoblanco y bizcocho de ortiguillas con melva canutera de Xanty Elías en Finca Alfoliz o las ortiguillas de mar con mayonesa de soja y lima de La Flor de Valencia. Y uno más: en Casa de Botes de Málaga ofrecen calamares rellenos de ortiguillas. La ortiguilla, obvio, mucho más allá del frito. Dele cariño.
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